Important Announcement

Godzilla, meet Mozzarella.

We interrupt this post series to bring you the following message: I have successfully made soft, creamy, even pillowy mozzarella.  My own fiore di latte.   I used a water bath in the sink to control the temperature, reduced the amount of culture and rennet, and shortened the setting time.  Knowledge is power, my friends.

We now return to your regularly-scheduled posting.

My First Batch of Mozzarella

Mozzarella is a pasta filata cheese, meaning that its curd is stretched or pulled.

This spring, I am beginning to make fresh cheeses at home.  This category of cheese, including such favorites as cream cheese, cottage cheese, and fromage blanc, are among the simplest dairy products to make, along with butter and yogurt.  While hard cheeses require aging in proper conditions (high humidity and constant temperature around 55 degrees), fresh cheeses are ready for consumption or refrigeration right away.

My goal in these first weeks of cheesemaking, apart from its edible rewards, is to understand the process of milk becoming cheese.  On one hand, the mechanics are so simple that they take care of themselves: microbes in fresh, raw milk convert lactose into lactic acid, increasing the acidity of the milk and causing the separation of curd and whey.  It is the cheesemaker's task to control the conditions of this process-- ingredients, temperature, timing, and sanitation-- to produce the desired outcome of edible cheese instead of spoiled milk.  

On this day, I was intent on crafting fresh mozzarella, using the method described in Ricki Carroll's popular book, Home Cheese Making, and materials purchased from her business, New England Cheesemaking Supply.  I used unpasteurized milk from Cook Farm, which is licensed by the state to sell it at their farm store.*  

You may view my slideshow of photos with captions describing the process of making mozzarella.

The process to make this mozzarella called for two gallons of milk, and took over five hours.  During this time, I monitored the temperature and acidity of the milk almost constantly.  I used pH test strips to test the acidity of the milk periodically.  Though it was difficult to get a precise reading, I could determine that the pH was decreasing, as it was meant to do.  The large pot containing the milk was set in a hot water bath over a low, gas flame.  It was difficult to maintain the 90 degree temperature the recipe called for-- the temperature kept creeping up to 100 degrees.  Curd formation happened quickly, so I felt reassured that I was on the right track in spite of these snags.  

Overall, my first batch of mozzarella was successful: its flavor was fresh, it melts beautifully, and no one who ate it suffered gastric distress.  However, its texture was tough, even rubbery.  This unfortunate feature revealed itself in the curd-cutting stage, when I had to secure the slippery curd mass with a spatula so that I could pull the knife through it.  I could tell when stretching the cheese that it wasn't going to have cloud-like consistency.  

Jim Wallace, the technical advisor at NECS, informed me that farm-fresh milk may require less rennet and lower temperature to set.  It seems that my raw milk is really eager to become cheese.  For the next batch of mozzarella, I won't use a double boiler at all, but will warm the milk in a sinkful of warm water.  I'll use less rennet to promote a softer curd.  

I kept several pieces of brined mozzarella in the refrigerator for eating over the following few days, and froze the rest in individual baggies of brine.  We'll use them to top homemade pizza over the next few weeks.  

If this account has prompted a craving for fresh mozzarella, there are quicker options for making it in your own kitchen.  NECS sells kits to make 30 Minute Mozzarella using your microwave.  Other companies sell fresh mozzarella curd, ready to be submerged in hot water, stretched, and shaped.  

Stay tuned for more cheesemaking adventures!

*The decision to consume raw milk products is a personal one.  I have a healthy immune system and trust the farm that supplies my raw milk.  Women who are pregnant or nursing, the elderly, and people with compromised immune systems are advised to avoid raw milk.  In the U.S., it is illegal to sell a raw milk cheese that has been aged less than 60 days.  An Internet search will provide information from both sides of the raw milk debate.

Update on Vermont producer of Buffalo's Milk Products

You may recall a recent post, in which I recommended yogurt produced by Woodstock Water Buffalo Company under the Spoondance Creamery label.  On a shopping trip a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that Whole Foods was nearly sold out of the yogurt.  "Wow," I thought,"a ton of people in western Massachusetts read my blog and rushed out to find buffalo's milk yogurt!  Eat your heart out, Clotilde Dusoulier!"

Unfortunately, I learned that the shortage was not caused by a sudden explosion of Savor Culture fanaticism.  Days after I published the post, Woodstock Water Buffalo closed its doors.  It seems that the company had been sold by its founder, David Muller, to a private investment group in 2006.  In February, those investors declined to provide the capital needed for national distribution of WWB's products.  Production ceased, and the company was put up for sale.  

The new owner is an Italian-born businessman currently residing in Toronto, Canada.  According to the Burlington Free Press, he is committed to keeping the company in Vermont, and he plans to expand the product line to include grass-fed buffalo meat and aged cheese, in addition to yogurt and mozzarella.  In a telephone conversation, an employee of the company told me that aged cheeses will be developed with several Vermont small-scale cheesemakers: Plymouth Cheese, Crowley Cheese Company, and Jasper Hill Farm.

The company is now known as Vermont Water Buffalo Inc, and its products are expected to be available beginning in April, though distribution will be limited to Vermont for some time.  The name "Spoondance Creamery" will not be used for at least six months, as a condition of the business deal.

I was relieved to learn that this unique operation, with its herd of 680 water buffalo, is back in business.  By all accounts, the new owner seems to have the passion (and the deep pockets) needed to make this project successful again.  I'm looking forward to trying the new products from Vermont Water Buffalo, and will provide updates about product distribution.

Everybody's Got a Water Buffalo...

UPDATE:  The company producing this product has been sold and is now known as Vermont Water Buffalo Inc.  Use of the name, "Spoondance Creamery," is suspended, and product availability is limited.  Read the full story here.

Since our last topic of discussion was traditional Cheddar, I thought we might focus on something exotic today.  To set the tone, please visit my friend, Larry, for a bit of song and dance (warning: check your computer's volume if you're reading this in your cubicle).

And now, I present to you: yogurt made from water buffalo's milk!  This yogurt is so thick and creamy, you can turn the cup upside-down without any ending up on the carpet.  It's perfectly smooth, not a bit grainy on the tongue.  When I peeled back the foil wrapper to reveal the strawberry yogurt, there was no puddle of whey on top, just a uniform, dense texture that stayed obediently on my spoon.  The natural, berry flavor was just sweet enough to complement the yogurt's tanginess without overpowering it.  I ate this yogurt more slowly than usual, savoring the fresh balance of flavors and the creaminess.  It was so satisfying that one six-ounce cup provided two servings for me.

This unique product is made by Woodstock Water Buffalo Company in Vermont.   Spoondance Creamery is the new line of lowfat yogurt, joining the full-fat yogurts and mozzarella that bear the WWB label.  The website for Spoondance Creamery isn't running at the time of this post, but you can visit WWB's site to learn about the company.  One of their objectives is to support the expansion of water buffalo husbandry in the US.  It seems that water buffalo are highly adaptable to various climates, and they can thrive on less nutrient-dense food than cattle.  A good article about WWB can be found here, a newspaper article that was published sometime in 2007 (no dateline?).

I found their products at my local Whole Foods Market.  The other flavors I recall seeing are raspberry, blueberry, and plain.  I'm planning to buy the plain flavor to replace Greek-style yogurt because I prefer the smoothness and clean flavor of the buffalo milk.  Yum!

February 10 Update: Vanilla flavor is also offered by Spoondance Creamery.  I bought several containers of plain flavor, as well as one of blueberry.  Tried the blueberry this morning, and can report that it's tart.  I mean, biting into purple Sweettarts tart, leaving that faint tingling sensation on your tongue.  Wonderful Husband Charles didn't appear to enjoy it, judging by his expression.  It turns out that Spoondance flavored yogurts contain about two-thirds of the sugar content of the flavored yogurt I usually buy.  I like the tartness, but I think that the strawberry is more approachable than the blueberry flavor.

Feb. 12:  The plain yogurt is mild, but has a sour aftertaste like sour cream.  It was perfectly suited to eating with honey, and also great with blueberry jam stirred in.  I'm really tickled replace imported Fage Greek yogurt with this high-quality product from Vermont!

haiku

The time has passed for
buffalo mozzarella;
I crave comfort food.